How to build a cheaper RC AitPlane by ourself

Make a new RC airplane, RTF, Ready To Fly

Aeromodelling is the art of designing, building and flying model airplanes, helicopters and multicopters. These models might be powered or unpowered. Powered aero-models use Electric Motors, IC Engines or Jet Engines to generate thrust to make them fly.

Flying models borrow construction techniques from full-sized aircraft. Model aircrafts are built using a variety of materials including paper, foam board, depron, balsa wood, coroplast sheets or composite materials like fiberglass or carbon fiber.

In this tutorial, we will be building a radio controlled model airplane using foam board. This RC Plane is easy to build and fly. It is also a good platform for beginners to learn about flying. You can also skip to check the build video tutorial of the RC plane by scrolling down this page.

Required Materials
1. Motor: CF 2822, 1200 KV Electric Motor



2. ESC: 30 Amp Electronic Speed Controller

3. Propeller: APC 8 x 4 Inch Electric Propeller

4. Battery: 11.1 V, 3 Cell, 1300mAh Lithium Polymer Battery

5. Servos: 9 grams Servos x 2

6. Battery Charger

7. Depron/ Coroplast/ Foam Board

8. Lite Ply (for Motor Mount)

9. Radio Transmitter and Receiver

10. Cycle Spokes(1.5mm/ 2mm) as Pushrods

11. Clevis x 2

12. Control Horn x 2

13. Linkage Stopper

14. Hobby Knife/Blade

15. Epoxy 5 min (Araldite)

16. Hot Glue Gun and Hot Glue Stick

17. Glass Fiber Tape 3.5 mm Nuts and Bolts

18. Screw Driver Set

19. Nutball Plane Plan (by Flitetest)

RC Plane Specifications
Wingspan: 20 inches

Length: 22 inches

All Up Weight: 425 grams

Center of Gravity: 5 inches from the Leading Edge of wing

How Does it Work?

Gravity, Lift, Thrust and Drag are the forces acting on an airplane in flight (Fig. 1). Maintaining a steady flight requires a balance, often described as equilibrium of all the forces acting upon an airplane. By varying this equilibrium, we can make the plane accelerate forward, upward, downward, etc.

Wings - DIY Hacking
Fig.2 Bernoulli��s Principle

The thrust for our aircraft is provided by an electric motor and the wings generate the lift. The shape of the wings and the aerofoil decides the lift generation. The lifting force is provided by the difference in the pressure of air flowing above and below the wing and is governed by Bernoulli��s principle (Fig. 2). Here, we are using a flat bottom, Kline�CFogleman airfoil.

Build Video/Tutorial

Printing the RC Plane Plans and Getting the Parts Ready
RC Plane - DIY Hacking

In this step, we lay out the plan that we printed before and tape the sheets together as shown in Fig: 1.1

We then take the full plan and lay it out on the foam board and cut the foam board accordingly to get the required parts as shown below Fig: 1.2

Also, cut the motor mount out of Lite Ply and drill holes as required by your motor (Fig 1.3).

Building the Power Pod and the Wing
RC Plane - DIY Hacking
Fuselage Setup

To build the Power Pod (fuselage), start by cutting the foam on the red line and remove the foam in-between the lines as shown in Fig 2.2. Fold the sides of the pod together and run a bead of hot glue to keep them firmly in place. Glue the Motor Mount that we have cut, to the front end of the fuselage with epoxy (Fig 2.3). Bolt on the motor to this mount using the 3.5 mm nuts and bolts (Fig 2.4).

RC Plane - DIY Hacking
Wings Setup

The next step is to build the wing of the aircraft. Cut half way through the foam on the red line so that the foam can easily bend on the line. Cut a bevel edge on the elevator so that it can move freely. Cut all the necessary notches(marked in black) for the servos, tail fin and power pod to fit into the wing. Fold the sides of the wing, so that its tips are pointed upwards at 1.5 inches (Fig 2.6, 2.7). This provides stability during flight.

We will next cut a bevel edge on the tail fin so that the rudder can move freely (Fig 2.8). Then, we glue the tail fin into place on the wing.

RC Plane - DIY Hacking

We use Glass Fiber tape and hinge the tail fin and rudder together. We then install the servos in place, which are necessary for controlling the elevator and rudder of the plane.

At the end of this step we will have four parts.

Wing
Power Pod
Tail Fin
Motor Mount
Assembling the Airplane
RC Plane - DIY Hacking

Once we have the Wing and Power Pod ready, we go ahead and glue them together as in Fig 3.1. Then, we install the control horn on the elevator and run a control rod from the servo to the elevator��s control horn as in Fig 3.2. We follow the same step for the rudder (Fig 3.3).

Installing the Electronics
RC plane tutorial for beginnersWe now install the RC receiver, battery and ESC into the Power Pod as shown in Fig below. And connect your servos to the receiver as in the below wiring diagram. Note the channels you use for each servo and control them correspondingly from the transmitter. Now your RC Plane is all set for flying :)

RC Plane - DIY Hacking

Flying Your New RC Plane
We will use a Radio Controlled Transmitter working on 2.4 GHz frequency to fly this airplane. I highly advise beginners to learn flying on a simulator, before actually flying the airplane.

In the first article of this series, I showed you how to add RC controls to a common toy store chuck glider, the Air Hogs Titan. It may not be pretty, but it has elements that most budding RC pilots truly need: simplicity and affordability. This time around, I'll illustrate a few techniques for using the Titan to learn how to fly. You'll probably get some exercise while you're at it!

No matter what model you are using as your primary trainer, the learning curve is always eased when you have an experienced pilot who can show you the basics. Most RC clubs have a process ironed out for training new pilots. The Titan probably doesn't fit that traditional training template. However, it would still benefit you to enlist the aid of a seasoned pilot to get you over the initial hurdles. If you don't have access to a pilot, any eager helper with a decent throwing arm and tireless legs is a useful alternative. Kids seem to enjoy it and there are plenty of opportunities for hand-on physics lessons.

GENTLE HAND LAUNCHES OF THE TITAN WILL PROVIDE A LOW-STRESS PATH TO GRASP THE RUDIMENTS OF RC FLYING WITHOUT MUCH CRASH RISK.
As you go through the process of learning how to fly, you will make a lot of mistakes��that's okay. The airplane will be flying slowly and close to the ground most of the time. So you're not dealing with much energy. Additionally, the Titan has several ways of dissipating energy when it hits the ground. It isn't likely that you will break anything.

In most minor crashes, the wings will pop loose from the fuselage. Just put them back in. A harder impact may cause the battery to rip free of the Velcro. Again, just put it back in place and keep on flying. If you do manage to break the Titan, repairs can be made with white glue or even tape. So go forth with no worries about breaking the airplane. It's no big deal.

Trimming

Since we've already balanced the Titan and ensured that the taileron control surfaces move in the correct directions, the next step is to get the model trimmed. We want the airplane to fly in a predictable manner without any control inputs. This means that a gentle toss of the model should result in a straight ahead and gradual descent to the ground.

Wait for a calm day and find an open area such as a soccer field or baseball diamond. You'll want to give yourself plenty of room and make sure that no innocent bystanders are around. Turn on the radio gear. Give the model a gentle forward toss with the wings level and the nose pointed at the horizon. You should get a smooth glide to a landing spot 30-40 feet away.

If, for example, the model noses in after launch, you need to adjust both tailerons so that they are more elevated when the controls are neutral. This can be accomplished by tweaking the trims on your transmitter. Whatever direction the model is deviating from the desired glide path, you want to input trim in the opposite direction. To correct nosing in, you want to input "up" trim��which actually means you'll be moving the trim lever downward. Likewise, if the Titan consistently turns to the right, input left trim.

Older radios have an analog slider for trim while newer models have buttons that you push repeatedly for more trim. Small amounts of trim can have a big effect, so make incremental changes between each test glide. If you find that you have to make large trim adjustments, you may find it easier to change the length of the relevant pushrod(s) by threading a clevis in or out.

Taking the Wheel
Once you are satisfied that the Titan is properly trimmed, it's time to start making control inputs to purposefully alter its flight path. Continue with the same gentle, level toss (always directly into the wind) and begin making inputs in each direction to observe the effect. Each of these flights will only be a few seconds long, but your learning will be fast paced.

The best thing to focus in during these initial flights is the landing flare. Basically, your goal is to gradually pull back on the stick to raise the model's nose just before it hits the ground. When you do it correctly, the Titan will touch down softly and slide to a stop. If you flare too soon or too harshly, the model will stall, resulting in an uncontrolled (but harmless) fall to the ground. Practice flaring until becomes second nature.

ONE OF THE FIRST SKILLS YOU SHOULD MASTER IS FLARING THE MODEL FOR A SOFT ARRIVAL ON THE GROUND.
After mastering the flare, you'll be itching for more flight time with each launch. You can begin to throw the model with more force, but technique is still very important. Keep the wings level and the nose toward the horizon no matter how hard you throw it. The additional speed from a harder throw will make the model climb after you release it. If you throw with the nose pointed toward the sky, you will probably just cause the airplane to stall.

The park in my neighborhood has a field with a gentle hill. I stand at the peak of the hill and launch the model into the wind. The extra flight time afforded by the Titan flying downhill will let you explore a wider range of control inputs and observe their effects. You will soon see that a soft touch on the controls results in a smoother flight path and longer hang times.

If you have someone who can launch the Titan for you, it is a good idea to change up your position relative to the glider. You goal is to be comfortable making control inputs no matter what orientation the airplane is in. For instance, when the glider is flying toward you, its right and left are no longer the same as yours. It takes some time to get used to the varying perspectives, but you'll get the hang of it with practice.

Flying Ever Higher

WHEN YOUR LAUNCHER'S FOOTSPEED ISN'T SUFFICIENT FOR GOOD LAUNCHES, A PULLEY CAN BE USED TO EFFECTIVELY DOUBLE THE MODEL'S SPEED.
As you build your skills, you will want to launch the Titan to higher altitudes. There are several established methods for doing this with conventional RC gliders. You can tow them behind a powered model, zing them up with a large bungee cord set-up called a "hi-start", or use a tow line attached to an electric winch. While none of those methods are very practical for the Titan, we have alternatives.

The simplest method I know of is to have someone run while pulling the glider with a length of small-diameter rope. The length of the tow line will depend on how high you want the glider to go. If you do things correctly, more rope equals more altitude. Start with 50 feet of line and work your way up.

I've been using mason's twine for a tow rope. It is small, relatively light, and easy to work with. I buy the fluorescent colors so that the line is easier to see both in the air and on the ground. The only drawback to mason's twine is that it may absorb dew or other moisture on the ground, making it heavy. Monofilament fishing line can also be used. I've utilized 20 pound line with good results.

I MADE A SIMPLE TOW HOOK FROM A PICTURE HANGING BRACKET GLUED TO SHEET PLASTIC.
In order to tow the Titan, you need a hook on the bottom of the fuselage. This hook engages with a metal ring on the end of the tow line (I use a split ring from an old key chain). I made a hook by modifying a picture hanging bracket and gluing it to a small piece of sheet plastic with GOOP adhesive. I then taped this rig to the bottom of the model using strapping tape. Double check the model's balance after adding the tow hook and reposition the battery as necessary.

The location of the hook will determine how the model performs while being towed. With the hook close to the nose, the Titan will be very directionally stable, but it is not likely to climb. As you move the hook rearward, you can trade stability for climb. After some experimenting, I've placed the tow rig such that the apex of the hook is 3.5" forward of the model's center of gravity.

I ATTACHED THE HOOK TO THE MODEL WITH STRAPPING TAPE. THE LOCATION OF THE HOOK DETERMINES HOW THE MODEL BEHAVES WHILE BEING TOWED ALOFT.
My glider towing gear includes a clothesline pulley on a handle, mason's twine and a tent stake.

Rather than pulling the Titan off of the ground, I've found that launches are cleaner when the pilot holds the model off of the ground as the runner begins their sprint. Ideally, the glider will climb in an arcing path. As the Titan nears its apogee, the ring should fall free of the hook. Now you're gliding with more altitude than a hand launch could achieve.

MY GLIDER TOWING GEAR INCLUDES A CLOTHESLINE PULLEY ON A HANDLE, MASON'S TWINE AND A TENT STAKE.
Whereas most of your flights up to this point were probably not long enough for any significant changes in direction, the extra altitude of a towed launch may permit you to turn around and bring the Titan back to you. That will save you and your launch buddy some walking��a pretty good incentive in my book. This is where the time that you invested in flying from multiple perspectives will pay off big time.

Hooray for Science
My son volunteered to be the beast of burden for my tow rope testing with the Titan. The field we were using is quite rough, and not conducive to running at top speed. We were able to get a few good launches when there was a decent headwind, but there were other times when the Titan just wallowed on the end of the line, looking for more speed. I was prepared for this scenario, so I made a quick adjustment.

I had brought along a small pulley. This particular unit is a plastic clothesline pulley that I bought for a few dollars from Home Depot. I made a handle for it using a scrap broomstick and a short piece of music wire.

I unspooled about 150 feet of tow line, routed it through the pulley and secured the base end of the line to the ground using a plastic tent stake. My son was positioned just in front of the stake with the pulley in hand. The Titan and I were located behind the stake at the opposite end of the outstretched tow line. When my son began running forward with the pulley, the Titan now travelled forward at twice his footspeed. That was the kick in the pants we needed for better launches at this field.

Since the tow line effectively becomes shorter as the launcher runs forward with the pulley, there will come a point where they actually begin to pull the model back down rather than upward. This point will vary depending on the length of the tow line. The runner can't see what's happening above them, so they will rely on shouted orders from you to stop running��at least the first few times. The tow line will fall off of the hook when the runner begins slowing down.

THE GRADUATED TRAINING STEPS THAT I PROPOSE FOR THE TITAN WILL HELP PREPARE YOU TO PILOT MODELS WITH HIGHER PERFORMANCE.
Looking Ahead
The Titan is not all that efficient as RC gliders go. With a good launch you might get flights lasting 45 seconds to a minute--maybe more. That may not sound like much, but it's plenty for learning new skills. Pick one thing to work on for each flight. Repeat it until you get that particular skill nailed down, then pick a new challenge to conquer.

I personally enjoy the thrill of towed launches��even with a simple glider like the Titan. It represents a coordinated effort between two people to attain a successful flight. There are a lot of variables involved. A great launch followed by a long smooth glide is something to celebrate.

In the final installment of this series, I'll illustrate one way to add a propulsion system to the Titan. Not only does this significantly broaden your limits on flight time and performance, but it also adds a new control element to manage (throttle). It's the next logical step in your low-buck RC flight training journey.

In previous articles, I've shown you how to convert a toy store glider to RC and how to use that glider for learning to fly. After you've spent a little time with the glider, you should have a much better understanding of what it takes to fly an RC model successfully. In this final installment of the series, I'll show you how I added a power system to give the model longer flights, a wider performance range, and more control.

The glider I've been using is the Air Hogs Titan. Just like every other aspect of the conversion to RC, I approached the power system with the aim of keeping everything as simple and straightforward as possible. What results is an affordable, functional and well-behaved model that is not likely to overwhelm RC newcomers.

Power to the People

I was really happy with the power system that I installed in my Airplane! model (another chuck glider conversion), so I decided to repeat it here. It consists of an ElectriFly Rimfire 250 brushless motor, a GemFan 5x4 propeller, a 3S-500mAh LiPo battery, and a Flight Power 6-amp Electronic Speed Control (ESC). This particular ESC is no longer made. The Castle Creations Thunderbird 9 is a good substitute.

The ESC has a Battery Eliminator Circuit, which provides power to the onboard radio gear from the flight battery. This allowed me to get rid of the 4-cell 1100mAh NiMH battery that previously powered the radio. In fact, the combined weight of the new power system components is within a gram of the weight of the NiMH battery alone. So the Titan is no heavier as a powered model than it was as a pure glider.

THE POWER SYSTEM COMPONENTS I USED ARE ALMOST THE EXACT SAME WEIGHT AS THE RADIO BATTERY USED FOR THE GLIDER VERSION OF THE TITAN (RIGHT).
Rather than locating the motor in the tail, as I did with my knotted airliner, I decided to mount the Rimfire to a pylon on top of the fuselage. Among the benefits of this configuration are short wires and minimal weight distribution. The high location also helps to keep the motor out of the dirt and grass during landings (and crashes). The only significant tradeoff of the pylon-mounted motor arises when you launch the model. I'll talk about that a bit later.

I used a 6" x 3/8" square hardwood dowel as the pylon. The Rimfire has a built in mounting bracket with three arms at right angles. I predrilled the dowel to mate with two of those arms and left the third arm unused. I also had to cut a shallow notch on the forward face of the dowel to make room for a small nub of the motor shaft that protrudes from the rear of the motor.

Approximately 2-1/2" of the dowel is imbedded into the top of the foam fuselage. The best way that I've found to drill holes in foam is to use a sharpened metal tube��usually brass or aluminum. I didn't have a 3/8"-diameter tube handy, so I scavenged several sections of tubing from an old telescoping radio antenna and found the perfect size!

SHARPENED METAL TUBES ARE GREAT FOR DRILLING HOLES IN FOAM. THIS TUBE WAS SCAVENGED FROM A TELESCOPING RADIO ANTENNA.
The motor needs a slight upward tilt to counteract the downward tilting force created by having the motor mounted up high. Just a few degrees it all it takes. The area of the fuselage just behind the faux cockpit canopy already has a downward slope to it. So I decided to drill the hole for the pylon perpendicular to this surface. I started the hole slowly, making sure that I was maintaining the desired tilt angle while also being perfectly vertical when viewed from the front.

When drilling was complete, I was literally left with the classic problem of a square peg and a round hole. In this case, it's really no problem at all. I sanded the bottom end of the dowel to give it a slight point. I was then able to push the dowel into the hole without ripping the foam. I did my best to make sure that the front side of the pylon was facing perfectly forward as I inserted it. After test fitting, I removed the pylon, added a little Gorilla Glue, and put it back into place.

I SHARPENED THE BOTTOM END OF THE MOTOR PYLON SO THAT IT COULD BE EASILY INSERTED INTO THE HOLE IN THE FUSELAGE.
Hooking Up
Once the glue for the pylon dried, I installed the motor. I then connected the ESC between the receiver and the motor. On Tactic radios, such as the TTX850 that I'm using (and Futaba brand radios) you must reverse the throttle channel on the transmitter for ESCs to work correctly. This is typically done via an on-screen menu or a physical dipswitch.

Before mounting the propeller to the motor, I attached the battery and made sure that the motor spun in the correct direction when I applied throttle. The standard direction is clockwise when viewed from behind the motor. If the motor is spinning in the wrong direction, you merely have to swap connections on any two of the three wires between the motor and ESC.

The motor includes a "wobble mount" for attaching props with an O-ring. I prefer a more solid attachment, so I used a Great Planes collet adapter. The 5mm prop shaft of the adapter matches the hub of GemFan props perfectly, so no shims are necessary.

THE TITAN BALANCES CORRECTLY WITH THE POWER SYSTEM COMPONENTS MOUNTED IN THE SAME LOCATION THAT THE RECEIVER BATTERY FORMERLY OCCUPIED.
I anticipated that I would have to move around some of my onboard components to maintain the same center of gravity as before, but that was not the case. With the LiPo battery mounted against the receiver using the existing Velcro strip, the Titan balanced perfectly at the desired CG point. Bonus!

The powered Titan will be flying faster and higher than it did as a glider, so it's time to start thinking about tailoring its control response. If your radio offers dual rate controls, you may want to configure them. "Dual Rates" lets you choose how much total travel each servo has with the flip of a switch. Less travel makes the model less responsive to your control inputs. This is typically a good thing since new pilots tend to over-control their models.

The TTX850 actually has triple rates. I set mine up with 100%, 75%, and 50% rates on pitch and roll. I'd suggest that beginners start flying the Titan with 75% throw and bump it down if you have a consistent problem with over-controlling. Likewise you can enjoy the responsiveness of 100% throw as you gain confidence.

Before taking the powered Titan out for a spin, I decided to add a little color. I know that I mentioned more than once in the build article that you should not worry at all about the looks of this plane. I still stand behind that. The color I added has a purpose. The wide stripe that wraps around the left wing will help your orient the Titan as it is flying. OK, I'll admit it. The light blue paint I added to the canopy was just for looks. I broke my own rule.

I used water-based latex house paint that I applied with small foam brushes. Add paint sparingly because the weight can add up if you go crazy with it. Most spray paints will dissolve the Titan's styrofoam structure. I was able to use blue spray paint to accent the wing stripe by very carefully and lightly adding paint only on top of the dried latex coat.

THE RIMFIRE 250 BRUSHLESS MOTOR IS TINY, BUT IT PROVIDES PLENTY OF POWER FOR THE SLOW-FLYING TITAN.
Flying the Titan With Power
Having a motor gives the Titan considerably more flexibility than it had as a glider. Even so, I recommend that you continue to approach flying this model in preplanned, graduated steps. Start small and grow big. There are way too many variables involved for me to give you a thorough flying tutorial here. I'll try to cover the big stuff. Some things are best learned by trial and error anyway.

As with gliding, make sure that you are in an open area where you won't be encumbered by trees, buildings, or spectators. Just learning how to keep your model in the air can be a challenge. You don't want to have to dodge things too. Also wait for calm weather with single digit wind speeds.

IT IS EASIEST TO LAUNCH THE TITAN WITH ? TO ? POWER. THIS PREVENTS IT FROM NOSING OVER DUE TO THE HIGH MOUNTED MOTOR.
The high thrust line of the Titan's pylon mounted motor will tend to make the airplane pitch down when you add power. The upward angle that we introduced to the motor mount will pretty much mitigate this effect during cruise flight, but it will still be evident when you have a combination of high power and low airspeed��.such as when you launch. I suggest that you launch the model with 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and be ready to pull back on the control stick to get the nose up if it becomes necessary. Once the Titan has picked up some speed, you can ease in more power.

For your initial flights with the powered Titan, I recommend treating it as a powered glider. More specifically, you should use the motor to climb to altitude. Then shut the motor down and descend in a glide. This will help you ease into the additional burden of managing the throttle on top of the directional controls.

At full power, the Titan should comfortably climb at about a 30-degree angle. If you try to climb too steeply, the airplane will lose speed and eventually stall. If you notice the airplane slowing down, just ease off of your back pressure on the right control stick. This will lower the nose and the model will accelerate.

It is sometimes hard to judge from the ground how fast a model is flying. Your first indication that it has slowed may be when it tilts over in stall. Don't panic if this happens. Allow the model to descend so that it can get back to flying speed. Sometimes the best thing you can do in such a situation is nothing at all. Always remember that the Titan started out as a free flight model. It can fly just fine all on its own. In any crisis, all you have to do is pull back the throttle and let go of the right stick. As long as you have sufficient altitude, the airplane will self-recover to level flight. Yay physics!

You will quickly notice that the Titan no longer glides as well even though it is no heavier than before. This is because the prop will windmill in the breeze as the model glides. This creates a significant amount of drag that negatively affects efficiency. You can add in a few clicks of throttle to help regain that loss.

Plan to Succeed
A common problem that I see with new pilots is that they take off without a flight plan. Don't get me wrong, aimless wandering is a lot of fun once you're a competent pilot. But it invites trouble for those who are still honing their reflexes. Your flight plan doesn't have to be complex, but it is important to give yourself a goal. Starting out, you may just set out to fly one clockwise circuit to climb. Then descend in the same direction. Maybe, the next time up you do the same thing in the opposite direction. The point is to always have a goal for where you want the airplane to be and proactively work to put it there. You don't want to fly reactively.

Be sure that you keep the model plenty close enough for you to see it clearly. The wing stripe will help you stay oriented, but the profile of an airplane can be confusing as it gets further away. Keep it close and you won't have any issues.

THE SINGLE STRIPE ON THE LEFT WING IS USEFUL FOR MAINTAINING VISUAL ORIENTATION OF THE TITAN��ESPECIALLY IN OVERCAST CONDITIONS, AS SHOWN HERE.
After a few climb-and-glide sessions you'll probably be ready to try continuous motor runs. Climb to 50-75 feet of altitude and then throttle back. My Titan cruises nice and slowly at just above half throttle. You'll then want to practice making turns in both directions without gaining or losing altitude. I've been able to get 15-20 minutes of flight time per battery when flying this way. With that much time at the sticks, your logbook and skills will expand quickly.

There will likely be times when you get out of sorts and a crash becomes inevitable. Train yourself to shut down the motor in these situations. Having the motor off before impact will minimize damage when the model hits the ground. It is equally important to make sure the motor is not running (or trying to) after the Titan is on the turf. If the propeller becomes broken or entangled in grass during a crash, not shutting down the motor could cause significant additional damage.

If you find yourself getting really confident, the Titan is even capable of mild aerobatics with 100% control rates. It will carve through impressively sharp turns and even pull off a respectable loop. This model is at its best, however, at medium power settings with a soft touch on the controls.

THE TITAN IS A GENTLE FLYER THAT IS GOOD FOR TRAINING UNSTEADY ROOKIE PILOTS. IT'S ALSO FUN FOR RELAXING AFTERNOON FLIGHTS.
Keep At It
Having an experienced tutor will give you your best chance for success in learning to fly RC.
I've said it multiple times before, but I think it's worth repeating: Having an experienced tutor will give you your best chance for success in learning to fly RC. It isn't a prerequisite, but an instructor will give you a significant boost. For those of you who decide to venture out alone, I think this Titan conversion provides a practical and affordable avenue to learn the basics. Once you've become comfortable flying this model, you'll be ready to take on more powerful and aerobatic airplanes (or gliders).

You may want to keep the Titan around even after you've earned your wings. Sedate models aren't just for training, they can be a lot of fun for a relaxing afternoon flight. It is also likely that your dive into RC will spark the interest of neighbors and friends. Then it's your turn to be the teacher!